Published: October 29, 2013

Goth Is Dead, Long Live Goth

By Jennifer Daniel and Alicia DeSantis

Last week, “South Park” devoted an entire episode to mocking “those goth kids.” The compliment was perhaps backhanded, but it is a testament to the staying power of a countercultural identity that had its heyday in the mid-1990s. “Goth never truly dies,” said Lauren M.E. Goodlad, a professor at the University of Illinois, Urbana, and an expert on goth culture. “Part of its aesthetic is undeath.” And yet, the goth “look” remains surprisingly difficult to pin down. Contemporary goths put together a collage of styles drawn from a variety of fringe influences. “‘Wear that! Do this!’ That would be a goth’s worst nightmare,” Professor Goodlad said. “And I don’t mean that in a good way.” With that in mind, a style guide for the look that’s hard to kill.

Dyed and Gone to Hell

Overdyed black hair is, of course, a signature of goth style. But today’s goth doesn’t necessarily subscribe to Siouxsie’s handbook: any unnatural color will do. According to YouTube, searches for “pastel hair” on the site have grown eleven-fold in the past two years.

Kiss Me, I’m Dead

In 1996, Urban Decay debuted lipstick colors in Bruise and Roach. Their darkest lipstick, Shame, is their best-selling shade this season.

Unto Herself

In the 1990s, cemetery picnics were popular among goths — an echo of Victorian customs. But contemporary goths aren’t tied to history. As Catherine Spooner, author of “Contemporary Gothic,” explained, the style is now far more flexible. Goths in Japan “don’t necessarily have the same interest in gothic culture,” she said. “Maybe they just like the look.”

Black Is Not Enough

Valerie Steele, director and chief curator of the Museum at FIT, points out that “there’s always black in fashion.” What makes goth goth is the imagery around it. “Goth is more darkly, lushly romantic,” she said. “It’s not minimalism.” Nor should goth be confused with grunge. Grunge is an “anti-style,” Professor Goodlad said. “No one becomes a goth because they don’t want to strike a pose.”

The Curse of Sunshine

Vampires don’t sparkle — and neither do goths. Influenced by the tastes of a Victorian aristocracy, pale or even powdered skin emphasizes the shadowy contrast between dark makeup and clothing.

Tread Lightly, for Eternity

Google searches for “creeper” style shoes have grown by more than 530 percent between September 2010 and September 2013. “The goth trend is no longer reserved for an underground subculture,” said Heidi Ware, head of fashion editorial and creative for eBay. A choker necklace is sold on the site every 55 seconds.

Blood, Blogs, and Tears

According to Nancy Kilpatrick, author of “The Goth Bible,” goths are the type who “will notice the dead bird on the street.” But it would be wrong, she said, to see goth as truly death-oriented. “It's more that life is a paradox: there is the sun but there is also the moon.”

For Tom Milsom, a musician and self-described “mall goth,” the “sad mournful” position of the goth resonates with the loneliness of the Internet. For teenagers, Mr. Milsom said, Tumblr and similar sites are “a place to cry.” “Everything is incredible and everybody is sad. ... There is a real cultural relevance beyond being moody.”

Goth goes mainstream (again)

Pop Music

On the cover of Rihanna’s recent single, “What Now,” the singer dons a goth look, complete with heavy eyeliner, prominent cross and black slip dress. Miley Cyrus, the Olsen twins and even Kanye West have dabbled in the darkness.

Children’s Toys

According to Mattel, the second-best-selling line of dolls in the world is Monster High, with characters dressed in skulls, fishnets and streaked hair (Barbie remains No. 1). Gerrick Johnson, an analyst at BMO Capital Markets, estimates that the line has annual sales of more than $500 million.