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36 Hours

36 Hours in London

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To the casual observer, London may present itself as a capital wedded to traditional and, at times, perplexing institutions, particularly over the past year, from the rotating cast of prime ministers to the choreographed schedule of mourning following Queen Elizabeth II’s death. In actuality, London is a complex knot of old and new. It is also an almost insurmountable task to try conquering the city in one weekend. This itinerary — which traverses an 1800s wine bar loved by a new generation, a night out in South London’s Caribbean heart, centuries of British art under one roof and riverside strolls — is here to help you unlock some of the city’s sprawling, youthful and diverse nature.

Recommendations

Key stops
  • Tate Britain is a museum in Millbank that charts centuries of art created in Britain.
  • E Pellici is a 122-year-old traditional “caff” in East London.
  • Gay’s the Word, established in 1979, is considered the oldest L.G.B.T.Q. bookstore in London.
  • Brick Lane Vintage Market is a subterranean thrifter’s bazaar, selling vintage and independently made clothing and accessories.
Restaurants and nightlife
  • Gordon’s Wine Bar, established in 1890 and thought to be London’s oldest wine bar, is situated next to Victoria Embankment Gardens.
  • Cafe TPT and Four Seasons are beloved restaurants in Chinatown, in the city’s West End, known for their roast meats.
  • Speedboat Bar is a new Thai-Chinese fusion restaurant and bar in Chinatown.
  • Fish, Wings and Tings is a South London restaurant serving Caribbean cuisine in Brixton Village market.
  • Negril is a small Caribbean restaurant on Brixton Hill.
  • The Old Queens Head is a pub in Islington, in North London, serving a hearty Sunday roast.
  • The Quality Chop House is a modern British restaurant in Farringdon, in Central London, with an impressive Sunday set menu.
  • Hootananny is a music venue in Brixton with diverse live acts and D.J. sets.
Shopping and markets
  • Skoob Books and Judd Books are secondhand bookstores with buckets of charm in Bloomsbury.
  • London Review Bookshop is a store connected to the literary magazine London Review of Books with a much-loved cafe.
  • Spitalfields Market in East London is home to independent sellers, food stalls, restaurants and boutiques.
  • Rajmahal Sweets is a cornucopia of treats on Brick Lane where you can get everything from jalebi and Turkish delight to bhajis and pakoras.
  • Atika is a vintage store that spans two floors off Brick Lane; it also sells independent art.
  • Jen’s Plants and Florist is a small, Black-owned plant store off Brick Lane.
Outdoor activities
  • Queen’s Walk is a walking route that stretches along the South Bank of the River Thames. Highlights on the walk include Shakespeare’s Globe Theater and the Southbank Center.
  • Regent’s Canal is a scenic waterway that stretches for almost nine miles.
Getting around
  • London’s Tube network is the best way to navigate the city. Many lines run a 24-hour service called the “Night Tube” on Fridays and Saturdays. You can also hail a black cab in most areas, or order a car with ride-hailing apps like Uber and Bolt.
Where to stay
  • London’s outpost of The Standard is sleek and stylish with a perfect location — it’s a two-minute walk from King’s Cross Station and a short train ride into Central London. A double room hovers around £349 a night, or about $425.
  • For those after amazing views of the Thames, Sea Containers on the South Bank is an excellent option. A double room starts at £261 a night.
  • The Zetter Townhouse, a 13-room Georgian townhouse in Clerkenwell, is full of charm and eccentric decor. Rooms here start from £249 a night.
  • For those on a budget, rooms at the trendy Mama Shelter in Shoreditch start at around £100 a night, while Assembly in Covent Garden puts you at the center of the city without breaking the bank (rooms start at £100).
  • Shoreditch in East London can be ridiculously hip, but it is a perfect, slightly off-the-beaten-track location for short-term rentals. Marylebone is also a good option for those who want to be closer to the center of town.

Itinerary

Friday

4 p.m. Walk the Queen’s Walk
Earlier this year, images from the South Bank of the River Thames were beamed across the world as mourners waited in a dizzyingly long line — known simply as “The Queue” in Britain — to see the coffin of Queen Elizabeth II lying in state. Stroll down the Queen’s Walk, where the mourners lined up for hours. Take the riverside route that stretches from Tower Bridge to the Golden Jubilee Bridges. The walk is touristy, yes, but it is also pleasant and iconic. Most of all, it’s an exercise in efficiency: Highlights of the hour-long walk, in addition to views of the Thames, include HMS Belfast, London Bridge, the Clink Prison Museum, Shakespeare’s Globe, the National Theatre and the British Film Institute.
5:30 p.m. Grab an early drink at a local favorite
Cross over to Victoria Embankment to find Gordon’s, which is thought to be London’s oldest wine bar. Established in 1890, this bar may be lovingly called “London’s worst-kept secret,” but an early drink here is a great scene-setter for the night, and it improves your chances of getting in before the crowds. Sit inside the cozy wine cellar where the lights are dim and the décor is suitably old-timey. You can also grab a seat outside, where tables are right next to Victoria Embankment Gardens; Britons love an alfresco drink, whatever the season. A glass of wine is unlikely to cost more than £15.
8 p.m. Eat something new in Chinatown
In the last two years, London’s Chinatown has experienced painful closures of decades-old, well-loved establishments. The area still has a lot to offer visitors, however. Four Seasons on Gerrard Street is a reliable favorite (be sure to order a portion of the boneless roast duck, £16.80), or check out fellow stalwart Cafe TPT to enjoy some honey-roasted pork (£8). For something new, the Thai-Chinese restaurant Speedboat Bar opened earlier this year and boasts a fun atmosphere with colorful, maximalist decor. Order the spicy prawn ceviche (£12) to start, and the beef tongue and tendon curry (£14) is a worthy choice for a main.
11 p.m. Head to a late-night comedy show
Round out the night with some laughs at The Top Secret Comedy Club in Covent Garden. There are few aesthetic frills at this well-loved venue, but it hosts some of the best comedy in the country and serves drinks at prices rarely seen in the West End (pints start at £3; wine at £3.30). On some nights, the club teases audiences with a secret “celebrity guest” on its lineup — usually a well-known comedian testing out material ahead of a tour. Tickets for the “late late” show, the final of the night, are about £10 each. (Tickets usually sell out, so book ahead.)
With almost 100 figures, Tate Britain’s The Procession, by Guyanese-British artist Hew Locke, fills up a whole gallery and runs through late January.

Saturday

10 a.m. Fall in love with “the full English”
The full English breakfast elicits a strength of feeling among most Britons. (Its price is often used as a litmus test for the nation’s economic health.) Plus it has an almost medicinal quality. A busy day ahead? Nursing a hangover? There’s no salve like it. Go to E Pellicci, a 122-year-old cafe (caff) in London’s East End with an intense sense of community and an old-school feel. The cafe itself is heritage-listed with wooden Art Deco paneling from the 1940s. The “Classic Set” (£10.40) has all the makings of a perfect fry-up: toast, sausage, egg, bacon, tomatoes, mushrooms and beans, while the “Have the Lot” (£13.80) adds black pudding and hash browns. (There’s also a vegetarian option.) Hit the A.T.M. beforehand, it’s cash only.
12:30 p.m. Get a literature fix in Bloomsbury
Bloomsbury is the heart of literary London — it was once home to Oscar Wilde and Charles Dickens, whose former home on Doughty Street is open to visitors — and there is no better place in the city to go book shopping. Visit Gay’s The Word, a small but mighty bookshop founded in 1979 by the Gay Icebreakers, a socialist group. There are badges for sale and a display of protest pins belonging to the gay activist and former store manager Paud Hegerty. Other highlights in the area are the secondhand bookshops Skoob Books and Judd Books. A 15-minute walk away is the bookshop for the London Review of Books. It has a beloved cafe where you can pore over your spoils with coffee and cake.
3:30 p.m. Take a trip through British art, old and new
There are few better places to visualize Britain’s grappling with old and new than Tate Britain in Millbank. (It is one of two Tate museums in London; Tate Modern has an international and contemporary remit.) There is a free exhibit of works dating back to the Tudor period, and you can view art by John Everett Millais and William Hogarth. The museum is also home to the world’s largest free display of work by the celebrated painter Joseph Mallord William Turner — the namesake of Britain’s Turner Prize. Another free-to-view highlight is the “Sixty Years: The Unfinished Conversation” display, through spring 2023, which features works by Black photographers like Bandele ‘Tex’ Ajetunmobi and Ajamu and Caribbean artists such as Donald Locke.
Fish, Wings & Tings
7 p.m. Eat in one of London’s cultural hearts
Three stops on the tube will take you to a neighborhood that is not often included in guides, but that encapsulates what makes the city hum: its immigrant communities. Brixton is one of the beating hearts of Black London, with an integral Caribbean community that’s thriving despite gentrification pressures. (Learn more history here at the Black Cultural Archives, which is open until 6 p.m. on Saturdays.) Pull up a bench at Fish, Wings & Tings, a popular stop for jerk chicken with rice and peas and coleslaw (£14), along with a blaring soundtrack outside Brixton Village market. Or, head up the road to Negril, a small and understated Caribbean restaurant on Brixton Hill, where a side dish of saltfish fritters with lime mayo and hot sauce is a must.
Fish, Wings & Tings
9 p.m. Lose yourself in the beat
Brixton’s music scene is just as vibrant as its culinary offerings (fun fact: David Bowie was born and spent some of his childhood here). Buskers frequently perform outside the tube station, and songs like Eddy Grant’s “Electric Avenue” and the Clash’s “Guns of Brixton” reference the area. After dinner, go to Effra Street’s Hootananny, a music venue in a converted Victorian pub with an impressive beer garden out front. It has D.J. sets and its live music calendar runs the cultural gamut, from nights of traditional Balkan music to Colombian Folk and reggae.
Broadway Market in Hackney is a street-market community that has been running since Victorian times.

Sunday

Rajmahal Sweets
10 a.m. Shop and snack with inspiration
Brick Lane has one of the largest Bangladeshi communities in London, the best curry houses in the city and plenty of street art. Start at Rajmahal Sweets for a snack of sweet jalebi or savory samosas before heading to Brick Lane Vintage Market, a thrifters paradise in a sprawling basement with hundreds of stalls to explore. Trips are often overwhelming yet productive. Atika is a vintage department store with an amazing selection of art prints, ceramics, jewelry and books. And around the corner, Black-owned Jen’s Plants and Florist sells beautiful dried flowers that can be packed away in your holdall. Also check out nearby Spitalfields Market, where you can find eclectic vintage curios that will make perfect gifts for those back home.
Rajmahal Sweets
Quality Chop House
12 p.m. Settle in for a Sunday roast
The Sunday roast, much like the fry-up, is a national institution. The Old Queens Head pub in Islington, with its club nights and live music, feels like the preserve of the young and hip during the week, but Sundays are a change of pace. Settle upstairs for a choice of roasted meats including chicken and leg of lamb, as well as a vegan option in the chestnut and mushroom wellington — all come with the trimmings (£13.50-£15.95). For something more upmarket, try the Quality Chop House in Farringdon for a three-course roast (£39). If it’s available, order the Capezzana olive-oil ice cream for dessert. This option is for the preplanner: Sunday reservations are often snapped up weeks in advance.
Quality Chop House
2 p.m. Take a stroll along Regent’s Canal
Walk off your roast along Regent’s Canal, whose entire waterway stretches almost nine miles. Tackle a portion by starting at Canalside Square, a seven-minute walk from The Old Queen’s Head pub, and stroll in the direction of Haggerston. The walk is beautiful and leisurely, with kitschy canal boats often lining the waterway. For a walk of around 30 to 40 minutes, exit the canal walkway at the East London neighborhood of London Fields, which boasts the excellent Broadway Market and a gorgeous park. Grab pastries from the market and sit in the park for a scenic and peaceful end to a lively weekend.