The overall mood of the autumn/winter 2023 season is summarised in British Vogue’s seasonal trend report as “pared-back, everyday clothes, executed in best-in-class fabrics”. Far from anything OTT or extravagant, hero pieces that emerged included baggy jeans, grey hoodies, black tailored coats and white shirts. But there was nothing boring about these quiet classics, which were elevated by craftsmanship and executed in the most beautiful fabrics. This sensibility naturally filtered into the accessories department, with a shift towards timeless handbag styles that will be a lasting addition to any collection.
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Certain bags are destined for commercial success – Ferragamo’s squishy pouch and Prada’s top-handle bags immediately spring to mind. Gucci has also revived the Horsebit clutch from the Tom Ford era, new and vintage iterations of which are already trending in celebrity circles (fans include Rihanna and Kendall Jenner).
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From the new, ultra-practical clutch bag to the supersized tote, Vogue breaks down the key bag shapes for autumn/winter 2023 and where to buy the trending styles, now.
Red bags
Designers unveiled a plethora of fiery red bags for autumn/winter 2023, from tuck-and-go shoulder bags to slouchy clutches to crossbody styles. Maximilian Davis splashed his signature red across both ready-to-wear and accessories for his second collection for Ferragamo. Our favourite? A squishy pouch nestled in the crook of a model’s arm (look 28), which perfectly punctuated an otherwise all-black look.
Top-handle bags
When it comes to handbag trends, Prada is always worth paying attention to, and top-handle bags emerged as a key theme in Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada’s autumn/winter 2023 collection. The structured, ladylike accessories appeared in classic black and tan, but also buttery yellow and sugary pink. Ferragamo, Dior and Schiaparelli also excel at this perfectly prim bag shape.
Chain bags
Chain handles brought added pizzazz to the bags at Loewe, Victoria Beckham and Louis Vuitton this season. Consider the omnipresent metallic hardware as jewellery for your bag – and a chic way to elevate even the simplest look.
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Clutch bags
The clutch bag has taken a back seat over the past few years, but it returned with a splash on the autumn/winter 2023 runways, albeit looking rather different to those skinny envelope versions you might remember seeing in nightclubs circa 2008. With a clutch, it’s all in how you carry it, and brands like Miu Miu and Versace made the case for nonchalantly tucking it under your arm.
XXL tote bags
Accessories were scaled up to the max on the runways, proving that sometimes, size does matter. If you’re the kind of person who carries everything, everywhere, all at once, then the XXL totes from Jil Sander, Coach and Ann Demeulemeester will be right up your street. No need to streamline your belongings – these carryalls are roomy enough to fit your whole life in.
Silver bags
For autumn/winter 2023 we saw lots of magpie styling, with sparkly handbags that resembled disco balls taken out for a spin by the models at Balmain, Luar and Coperni. There were also less obvious ways to wear metallics: use a silver bag to add a little something unexpected to a daytime look – like the foil shoulder bag worn with a preppy blazer and red jumper at Molly Goddard.
Circular bags
It wasn’t all angular, boxy bags on the runways, there were softer edges, too. See: Balmain’s encrusted orbs, Bottega Veneta’s woven leather eggs and Feben’s spherical beaded bags.
Padded bags
Bags that could double up as pillows were rife at the shows. This was the key handbag style at Daniel Lee’s highly anticipated debut at Burberry; Marine Serre’s tube bags were wonderfully supple and Simone Rocha’s woven pouches – inspired by Lughnasadh, the festival of harvest in Ireland – were easy to carry.
Bucket bags
The autumn/winter 2023 collections were filled with all-black looks, and one of the chicest iterations we saw was at Givenchy, where a black blouse with a beautiful tie detail was tucked into a sweeping maxi skirt, with an elegant black leather bucket bag perfectly punctuating the outfit. They also appeared with delicate stud detailing or hardware, such as at Eudon Choi, Paco Rabanne and Hermès.
Slouchy bags
An It-girl essential back in the Noughties, slouchy bags are now just as key for autumn/winter 2023. Designers played with rich colours and textures – at Ralph Lauren there was a beautiful honey-hued tote, while Khaite introduced a gigantic Merlot shoulder bag and Bottega Veneta’s slouch came in indulgent cream intrecciato leather.