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Perhaps you’ve done your fair share of traveling but somehow, other than layovers at Heathrow, have never planned a proper visit to London. Travel veterans for whom, say, a long weekend jaunt to Hong Kong isn’t out of the question but who are also visiting for the first time face a challenge: how to see the best of London without reverting to being a guidebook-toting, Madame Tussauds–visiting tourist. Here, clever ways to see the city while avoiding the traps.
Prepare to walk—a lot.
Plan your visit in terms of neighborhoods rather than specific sites—try a morning walk through the charming residential streets of Notting Hill and find your way to Portobello Road for antiques (arrive early to avoid the crushing crowds of, yes, tourists), then grab a bite to go at Gail’s Artisan Bakery if you’re peckish or sit down for a proper meal inspired by Japanese, Korean, and Scandinavian cuisine at Flat Three (lunch is served on Friday and Saturday only).
Or maybe build a day around ever-trendy East London for shopping (look out for massive markets like the one that pops up weekly on Brick Lane), people-watching, and great eating (try Leila’s Shop for breakfast or Lyle’s for a lovely lunch). For contrast, pop over to Mayfair for a turn through one of London’s most exclusive neighborhoods. Visit Gymkhana for northern Indian cuisine so elegant it earned a Michelin star, or stop in William & Son for a thoughtfully curated variety of jewelry, clothing, home decor, and a walk through its collection of stunning shotguns and rifles.
Take a Hop-On-Hop-Off bus.
Yes, the “hoho” buses are for tourists. And that’s okay. You, the wise traveler, will use it as a clever way to see lots of touristy sites with a minimal amount of schlepping. Board early in the morning with a cup of coffee and a pastry and grab a prime seat. The grand loop routes will take you past just about all of the most popular sites (Big Ben and Parliament, Buckingham Palace, and the like) so you can get a look without having to actually hop off and brave the crowds. The bus will empty out at the London Eye. Exchange a knowing smile with your travel companion as you stay firmly in your seat.
Be thoughtful about your hotel.
If you’re looking for a charming, authentic London experience, The Goring is where Kate Middleton spent her last night before the royal wedding (it’s conveniently just a stone’s throw from the royal gardens and Buckingham Palace). The decor is traditional without feeling stuffy (the hand-painted Fromental wallpaper in the lobby is what Instagram dreams are made of), and the delicious breakfasts might turn you into a morning person. The 106-year-old family-owned property also features a sizable private garden hidden away behind the building—a perfect place to enjoy its famed tea.
For a bit of modern polish, opt for the Grosvenor House Suites in Mayfair—this all-suite property is a calm, sleek oasis with rooms overlooking Hyde Park or the streets of Mayfair. For larger families or longer stays, the penthouse apartments offer ample space, and all rooms come equipped with a full kitchen (the staff can arrange to have it stocked upon your arrival). The property is also quite close to some of the best shopping and restaurants in the city.
Visit the museums.
Sure, tourists visit London’s many museums, but the locals do, too. And while you may get stuck in the crowds, there always seem to be quiet nooks and crannies in even the most popular of museums. The National Portrait Gallery never feels overrun, and the on-site Portrait Restaurant is a superb spot for tea and stunning views of London’s most famous sites (the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben, and Trafalgar Square, among others). The Wallace Collection—a museum of French 18th-century paintings, furniture, porcelain, and an impressive armory housed in a historic London townhouse—isn’t always at the top of visitors’ lists, and that’s part of its appeal.
Choose restaurants wisely.
A great way to see a city is to plan your must-have meals first and then work your way backward, filling in nearby museums, shops, and sites to see between bites. It’s no secret that London has emerged from a long history of relative culinary blandness as a serious world leader in creative cuisine; the downside is that there are now an overwhelming number of fantastic restaurants to be tried. The debate over where to dine could be endless, but here are a few recommendations to kick-start any list: Borough Market, London’s oldest food market, offers more than 100 options, from produce vendors and cheesemongers to fish and chip joints and great spots like Brindisa (grab a rocket and chorizo roll to go); Kitty Fisher’s is a tiny Mayfair spot with a delightfully fresh menu and a bread and burnt-onion butter dish that must be tasted to be believed; for the British equivalent of a greasy spoon, tuck in for a proper English breakfast at the unpretentious Regency Café; and if you’re looking to experience upscale and seriously delicious traditional English fare, this is the master list.
Get out of town.
Once you’ve had your share of the London bustle, do yourself a favor and head out of town for a breather. If you have the time, take a trip a bit further afield and spend a quiet weekend in the countryside. But if you’re a bit pressed, hop on the Tube (about 40 minutes) and take a day trip to one of the city’s delightful suburbs. Richmond is located right on the banks of the Thames and offers lovely shops, boat tours on the river, and plenty of opportunities for beautiful walks through the historic homes and up to Richmond Hill. Nearby, visit the famous Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew and Kew Palace. For lunch or just a cup of tea, stop in at the stunning Petersham Nurseries Café, and don’t leave without ordering dessert.
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